Closing the Loop: A Guide to Material Recyclability in Fashion

The push towards a circular economy is reshaping how we think about fashion. Instead of viewing waste as a burden, we’re trying to see it as a resource that can fuel closed-loop production. The goal is to move away from the traditional ‘take-make-waste’ model and adopt a more circular approach to designing and disposing fashion products. This includes exploring new ideas like designing clothes to be reused many times, also known as cradle-to-cradle design.  

But why is recyclability gaining importance? The fashion industry creates a huge amount of waste every year, with millions of tons of clothes being thrown away. Recycling these materials is becoming more important, but it’s not easy. Clothes are often made from mixed materials, and there aren’t enough recycling systems to deal with them. These are big challenges we need to overcome.  

From potential environmental benefits to economic opportunities and regulatory pressures—there’s a lot to unpack here. This guide will look at the key parts of fashion material recyclability, along with the opportunities and challenges we face.  

Material recyclability in fashion means taking old clothes and turning them back into fibers that can be used to make new products. This can be done in different ways, like mechanical or chemical recycling, depending on the type of fibers. It starts with collecting and sorting the old clothes and then breaking them down into fibers that can be reused. Each of these steps needs good planning to make sure they are as efficient and eco-friendly as possible.  

The recyclability of a garment depends on several factors: 

• Fiber Composition: Natural fibers often recycle more easily compared to synthetic ones. For example, cotton and wool can be recycled with fewer challenges, while synthetic fibers like polyester require more specialized processes. Blended materials, such as cotton-polyester mixes, present significant challenges because separating fibers for effective recycling is labor-intensive and costly. 

• Garment Design: Simple garment designs made from monomaterials are much easier to recycle than those with multiple materials. Using a single fiber type ensures that garments can be processed without the need for separation, saving time and resources. Avoiding complex trims, zippers, or embellishments also helps streamline the recycling process. 

• Processing Methods: Treatments like dyes, coatings, or chemical finishes applied during garment manufacturing can interfere with the recycling process. Certain dyes and finishes contain chemicals that can become contaminants during recycling, affecting fiber quality. Opting for biodegradable or recyclable treatments can reduce these challenges and make the recycling process more efficient. 

• Color and Finishes: Dark colors and chemical finishes can complicate recycling. Dark dyes are more difficult to remove, which affects the versatility of the recycled fibers. Choosing lighter colors and non-toxic finishes can facilitate the recycling process and increase the potential applications for the recovered fibers. 

• Labeling and Trims: Non-recyclable trims, zippers, and mixed material labels make recycling difficult. Using trims made from the same material as the garment or ensuring they are easily detachable can greatly improve recyclability. Clear labeling on the garment indicating the type of fiber and recyclability can also assist recycling facilities in efficiently sorting materials.  

One way to understand the true environmental impact of recycling is Life Cycle Analysis (LCA). LCA looks at the energy, water, and greenhouse gases used at every step of a garment’s life, from when the material is made to when it is thrown away. This helps us figure out which materials are best to recycle and how we can improve the recycling process.  

Take recycled polyester as an example. It is often marketed as an eco-friendly solution because it aligns with existing supply chains and can reduce greenhouse gas emissions—at least on paper. REPREVE, a leading recycled performance fiber brand, claims it reduces emissions by 60% compared to making new polyester, but this only applies to making the fiber. In reality, a Toyoshima LCA found that the overall emissions reduction for a garment made from said recycled polyester is closer to 10%. Polyester can also only be recycled a couple of times before it can’t be used anymore, at which point it ends up in landfills or gets burned. This shows the limits of relying just on recycled polyester to solve fashion’s waste problem.  

Companies continue investing in polyester recycling primarily because it is cost-effective and integrates easily into production lines. However, if we aim for genuine circularity, we need to explore materials that can sustain multiple lifecycles without significant quality degradation or environmental costs.  

Understanding the recyclability of different materials is crucial for creating sustainable fashion. Each material has unique challenges and opportunities when it comes to recycling, and knowing these can guide better design and production choices. 

• Natural Fibers: Cotton and wool are recyclable, though challenges remain with dyes and blends. Silk, hemp, and linen have limited but growing recycling potential. 

• Synthetic Fibers: Polyester is recyclable, but fiber quality tends to degrade over time. Nylon recycling is challenging, though projects like Econyl show promise. Materials like acrylic and spandex are particularly tough to recycle.  

• Blended Materials: Cotton-polyester blends are especially challenging. Advances in chemical recycling are beginning to address these issues, but progress is slow. Innovations like Fibersort technology aim to automate the sorting of blended fibers, making recycling more feasible. 

• Non-wovens: Leather, rubber, and plastics have limited recycling options. Innovations in bio-based leather alternatives are beginning to change this landscape. For instance, companies are experimenting with mushroom-based leathers that are biodegradable and recyclable. 

Navigating fashion waste requires understanding different recycling methods. Mechanical, chemical, and hybrid solutions each have their own benefits and challenges to help you make informed sustainable decisions:  

Mechanical Recycling 

Mechanical recycling involves breaking down textiles into fibers through physical processes like shredding and tearing. This method is effective for many types of fabrics, especially natural fibers like cotton and wool. However, mechanical recycling can result in shorter fibers, which means the quality of the recycled material often degrades compared to virgin fibers.  

Mechanical recycling is ideal for post-industrial waste, such as fabric offcuts and unsold inventory, as these materials are often cleaner and have a more predictable composition compared to post-consumer garments. One significant limitation is the inability to separate complex blended materials, which limits the applicability of this method for mixed garments. 

Chemical Recycling 

Chemical recycling breaks down synthetic and natural fibers to their molecular building blocks, such as through depolymerization to convert polyester back into monomers. This method maintains fiber quality better than mechanical recycling and works well for synthetic fibers like polyester and nylon. 

Enzyme-based recycling for cotton and other cellulosic fibers is also gaining traction. It uses enzymes to break down cellulose into reusable materials without compromising quality. Chemical recycling can handle some blended materials, making it versatile, but it requires significant energy and the use of hazardous chemicals. Additionally, the infrastructure is still developing, limiting scalability.  

Closed-loop Recycling Systems 

Closed-loop systems take materials from old products and reuse them in new products of equal or higher quality. These systems are effective when paired with robust take-back and collection programs, such as those implemented by brands like Patagonia and H&M. 

Closed-loop recycling works best for materials that can be chemically broken down and repurposed without losing quality, like polyester, which can be recycled multiple times. Brands using closed-loop methods focus on product design that facilitates recycling—using mono-materials, reducing mixed trims, and eliminating harmful dyes. However, they depend heavily on consumer participation and effective collection infrastructure. 

Hybrid Recycling Methods 

Hybrid recycling combines mechanical and chemical processes to optimize the recycling of complex garments. Initially, garments are mechanically shredded to a manageable size, followed by chemical treatments to dissolve fibers and separate materials. 

This approach is especially useful for dealing with blended fabrics, which are difficult to recycle using traditional methods. Hybrid methods allow both synthetic and natural fibers to be reused independently. Although still experimental for many materials, hybrid recycling holds potential for making more textiles recyclable and improving fiber yield. 

Automated systems for detecting and sorting different types of fibers before hybrid recycling are being developed to enhance efficiency and reduce labor costs. 

• Patagonia: Patagonia is known for its take-back programs, where customers return used clothing to be recycled into new items. This initiative helps reduce the need for virgin materials and supports closed-loop recycling. 

• H&M: H&M’s Conscious Collection promotes sustainable fashion, using recycled materials to produce new garments. Their garment recycling initiatives encourage customers to return old clothing, which is then processed for reuse. 

• Econyl: Econyl regenerates nylon from discarded fishing nets and industrial plastic waste. Recycled nylon is used in a variety of products, from swimwear to carpet tiles, demonstrating the versatility of regenerated materials. 

• Stella McCartney: Stella McCartney has been a pioneer in incorporating sustainable practices in luxury fashion. The brand uses sustainable and recyclable materials in its designs, setting an example for luxury labels aiming to embrace circularity. 

• MUD Jeans: MUD Jeans uses a lease model for denim, allowing customers to return old jeans for recycling. This reduces waste and promotes the continual recycling of denim fibers, which helps to ensure fewer garments end up in landfills.

To close the loop effectively, we must rethink how we design garments from the outset. Designing for recyclability means prioritizing materials that can be easily separated, reused, and reincorporated into production without substantial loss of quality.  

Below are some best practices that designers can follow to create products that are easier to recycle and better suited to a circular economy:   

• Use Monomaterials: Design products with single-fiber content to make recycling easier. 

• Reduce Use of Blends and Coatings: Avoid non-removable coatings that complicate recycling. 

• Modular Design: Create garments that can be easily disassembled, like shoes with detachable soles. 

• Use Certified Recyclable Materials: Adopting standards like the Global Recycle Standard (GRS) can help ensure that materials are indeed recyclable. 

• Digital Tools for Design: Use digital platforms to simulate the recyclability of different designs. These tools can predict recycling challenges and help make more informed choices during the design phase. 

• Transparent Labeling: Labels that clearly indicate the fiber content and recyclability can help consumers make informed decisions and facilitate recycling at end-of-life. 

Certifications and standards play a critical role in ensuring that fashion materials meet sustainability and recyclability goals. They provide benchmarks for evaluating the environmental impact of materials and production processes, making it easier for brands to adopt circular practices. 

• Global Recycle Standard (GRS): Certifies products with recycled content. 

• Recycled Claim Standard (RCS): Tracks recycled materials through the supply chain. 

• Cradle to Cradle Certified™: Evaluates products for safety, circularity, and responsible manufacturing. 

• Ellen MacArthur Foundation’s Circular Economy Guidelines: A resource for brands looking to implement circular strategies.  

• Bluesign®: Focuses on sustainable textile production by managing chemicals, water, and energy use throughout the production process, ensuring that products are safe for the environment, workers, and consumers. 

• ISO 14021: Provides guidance on self-declared environmental claims, such as labels and declarations, that are used for recycling and other sustainability efforts, helping to standardize claims across industries.  

The journey towards a truly circular fashion economy is fraught with challenges, from technological hurdles to economic barriers and consumer behavior shifts. We need to ask ourselves critical questions: Are we measuring the right metrics when we assess material sustainability? Is recycling really the end goal, or just one step towards a broader strategy of waste reduction and reuse? How can brands balance profitability with a genuine commitment to reducing environmental impact without falling into the trap of greenwashing? Only by addressing these questions head-on can we hope to make meaningful progress in closing the loop on fashion waste.  

If you’re looking to digitally manage your recycling efforts and need guidance, talk to our team of sustainability and traceability experts. We can help you streamline these processes and work towards more sustainable practices together.